Sunday, August 22, 2010

Back home and still baking

Ciao tutti!
I have been home for a few days, and am in Flagstaff, where I just made the torta that I learned to make in Valle S. Georgio with Antonia (I promise I will post some about the last few weeks in Italy, including that wonderful visit!). I'll never try a pie crust again now that I have this incredibly easy and versitile recipe!

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Pasta Frolla-Torta
Antonia, Valle S. Giorgio, Italy, 17 agosto, 2010

100 g. sugar
100 g. butter
1 egg
250 g. flour (Farina typo “00”)
grated rind of one lemon, or lemon extract

Cream butter and sugar using beaters. Add egg and lemon and beat until smooth. Add flour a bit at a time and work it in with a fork, then knead for just a bit to incorporate. At this point, if it is very warm in the kitchen, you may need to refrigerate a bit to keep the dough cool. Roll out briefly on floured board and press into ungreased tart pan, using pieces of dough to patch. Prick bottom with fork. Spread with honey, marmalade, jam, or other sweet spread. Place sliced plums, peaches, nectarines, or other pitted fruit in a pretty pattern. Bake at 180 c. (350 f.) for about 30 minutes until crust is browned and middle is bubbly.

*you can also make a little more dough and make a lattice work on top.

** I’ve tried homemade fig preserves with fresh picked Italian prune-plums—fantastic. Then store-bought apricot preserves with Italian prune-plums—almost as good, but a little too sweet from the store-bought preserves.

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Last night staying in Valle S. Giorgio with my hosts Antonia (left), her husband Michele (taking picture), Corrado, my colleague who introduced me to my hosts, me, and Antonia and Michele's daughter Marta.

The torta with Antonia's homemade fig preserves, and prune-plums from their neighbor Gigi's tree.
The torta at the table... I am enamored by this new dessert!
Fresh fichi at the Padova market

Monday, August 16, 2010

Venice

Venice


Venice mystery...

I wanted to visit Venice on this trip, and had the chance yesterday. It is such a beautiful city, very mysterious and complex, yet there is always a way out of the maze of canals, bridges, sidewalks and alleys. Yesterday was Ferragusto, possibly the busiest day of the year in any Italian resort or tourist town, and Venice was jam packed with tourists. The remedy is to wander, not worrying about your destination, but to always wander away from the hordes, until finally you find quiet, elegant, though worn... Venice.

The Grand Canal from the stazione


A small ristorante



A "street" in Venice
San Marco
The clock at San Marco tells time, the position of the moon,
and the current sign of the zodiac.

According to Wikipedia: Today the clock displays the original I to XXIIII numbering around the outside, with I at the right hand side. The gilded stars are purely decorative. The signs of the zodiac are in anticlockwise order around the inner zodiac dial: the zodiac wheel rotates clockwise with the hour hand but very slightly faster. As a result the hour hand moves slowly anticlockwise relative to the zodiac, so that it passes through each sign in the course of the year.





Saturday, August 14, 2010

Montalcino e Fattoria Felsina

Saturday, July 31
Liz and I drove from Spannocchia to Montalcino through beautiful, winding back roads, including an unexpected bit of dirt road for a few kilometers. We spent the late morning/early aftenoon in Montalcino, then drove to Chianti to meet the Spannocchia interns for a great tour and tasting of wine and olive oil at Fattoria di Felsina, in Castelnovo Berardenga in southern Chianti. Felsina is the only olive oil producer in Tuscany (and one of only ~20-30 in Italy) that uses a process that removes the olive pits before pressing the olives. They also use a single variety of olives in each of their four special oils, a custom that is very unusual--then they also have a blend that they produce. We finished the day with a short trip into Siena, where we were considering meeting the interns for the Siena Jazz festival, but decided to stop for a few things at the store, and went back to Spannocchia where we enjoyed leftover bisteka fiorentina from the last night's dinner at Officina della Cucina Popolare, plus fresh insalata caprese, plus an excellent chianti from Fattoria Felsina. Era un cena molto eccellente!


Fattoria Felsina in Castelnuovo
Fattoria Felsina in Castelnuovo
Fattoria Felsina in Castelnuovo
Fattoria Felsina in Castelnuovo





After we arrived in Montalcino we had the perfect cappuccini
Classic view from Montalcino
Classic view of street in Montalcino
Pranzo (lunch) of pappardele con ragu di cingale (wide pasta with wild boar ragu), and glasses of Brunello di Montalcino (Riserva). The base of the glasse is as big as your head--better to aerate the wine. Yum--delicious!
Liz on the wall of the Fortezza




Friday, August 13, 2010

Chianti, cont'd...

I got so carried away in my last post about my mac dario's lunch, that I didn't finish writing about the rest of our wonderful day in Chianti!
The pictures just don't do it justice. The entire time--from when we left Florence, until we got to Siena, we drove through dreamy, winding roads that gave changing views of the most intensely cultivated, yet fantastically beautiful landscape. This is the magic of the Italian hand--the beauty and harmony of what is created, whether it is in a single dish of perfect pasta, a lovely, balanced glass of wine, wonderfully aged proscuitto, or the stitched together landscape of vines, orchards, olive trees, and farms. So many of my converstaions about agriculture and land use come back to this point--what the people treasure is the beauty and harmony of what they create, and they expect to live in harmonious surroundings. People understand what their legacy is, and the importance of maintaining and protecting a healthy, biodiverse, beautiful landscape. They can produce wonderful products while maintaining a gorgeous landscape, so they have marketable products, plus strong tourism. It is so compelling, once you come you want to return again and again...
There are pictures below of a winery that was suggested, and that we visited, and I am embarrased to say that I can't remember its name... I have it written down somewhere... We bought some wine but, as you can imagine, we already drank it--in Vernazza, I think--so I can't even look at the label! Oh, well, the memories last...
In Chianti
Chianti Winery
Chianti Winery
Chianti Winery
Chianti
Chianti
Chianti Winery
 

Chianti and Mac Dario's

On July 27, the day that Liz and I left Firenze we returned to Spannocchia through Chianti. We stopped in Grave in Chianti for a walk around, and stopped for a glass of Chianti and a small plate of fried zucchini flowers, where we mad our plan for the day. We had many suggestions of wineries to visit, as well as the obligatory visit to MacDario’s. This take some explanation…. There is a venerated macelleria (butcher shop) Antica Macelleria Cecchini in Panzano in Chianti, and the owner is Dario Cecchini. He became famous in the region for his opposition to aspects of globalization, specifically with the introduction of mad cow disease (this through conversations with various friends…). The result for those of us who love wonderful food is the “Mac Dario,” an amazing “take” on the fast food hamburger/French fry disaster. Here is their website:
http://www.dariocecchini.com/mac_dario_eng.html
We arrived by car, parked in a little space, and asked around for Mac Dario’s. On my third try, I asked a man in a delivery truck, who motioned to the butcher shop behind me, and told me to go in, and take the stairs. As soon as Liz and I waked in we were ushered to the back of the shop, through a door, and up a narrow flight of stairs, where whe emerged into a gay, lively outdoor restaurant with long tables with people seated family style, under large umbrellas, all surrounded by herb and vegetable gardens. We were seated across from a cute couple (he-Italian, she-from Salsburg—both interning in a farm/restaurant nearby with interests in food and agriculture—it’s a theme in this area!) and asked by the waiter where we were from. When I said, “Spannocchia,” he gave us a strong, sweet greeting, and said “cara Spannocchia!” and quickly brought us a carafe of vino rosso… Every time he came around he said something about Spannocchia or cara spannocchia!
We ordered the Mac Dario, and really, there is no way to describe the wonderfulness of this meal, but I’ll try… There is a fresh, rare patty of ground beef that has been cooked to perfection (and I am not a rare hamburger lover!), with a crunchy, but not hard, crust. Perfectly, barely seasoned. There are sliced tomatoes—of course they are the real tomatoes that are sweet and juicy. Then there are the potatoes—they are yellow potatoes, the kind that are silky and creamy—not grainy like russets. They call them “garlic and sage roasted” but I call them “olive oil and garlic and sage roasted,” and so good that you just can’t stop eating them. Sliced red onions. And by the way,  the onions fresh from the farm are not like the horrible, bitter onions that we get in the supermarket, that have probably been in refrigerated storage for months. You really can eat these alone, by the slice, with pleasure… They also bring sliced Tuscan bread in a folded down paper bag, and there are bottles of local olive oil and balsamic vinegar. There are three sauces that they are very proud of, and I liked the one that tasted like a honey mustard ok, but wasn’t crazy about the “ketchup” or the sweet and sour one… but with a meal like this, you don’t need any condiments. We had just one glass of vino each, and followed the meal with a cafĂ© and their signature olive oil cake—just a small slice. It was absolutely one of the greatest meals ever, and the ambience with the long tables of happy eaters, the joyful servers, Dario himself making an appearance, conversations with the diners around us… all in beautiful Chianti… oh, and we even had a little rain… it was remarkable. Compare this with a horrible fast food experience—it’s like heaven and hell…
They also serve a more complex meal with different meats, including Carpaccio, from the butcher shop, which I will try next time.


In Greve in Chianti in front of the ancient butcher shop (but not Dario's)
Enjoying the view of the piazza in Greve in Chianti
At Dario's... many titles begin with "Officina" presumably to denote that the place or store or manufacturer offers a product that has been created to high standards. And in the case of Dario's, this is very true!
The menu in Inglese
The menu in Italiano
Liz and our plates of Mac Dario's finest!

San Gimignano and Colle di Val d'Elsa

Ciao tutti,
I am so far behind on my blog, but have taken many pictures and have been writing a lot in my paper journal... so here are some images from the trip so far. I hope to catch up with more writing, but for now...

July 30-spent the afternoon in San Gimignano and had dinner in Colle di Val d'Elsa at L' Officina della Cucina Popolare.
An alcove of Piazza del Duomo
A lovely linen store in S. Gimignano--lots of items embroidered with bees. When I asked the owner why bees... he responded "per piacere"--because he likes them, and they are industrious and you can use their products for many things.
San Gimignano's towers
A mural in a small piazza where we waited out the rain... Saint Francis?