In Italia

Finally--I'm here. It's Thursday the first of July, early afternoon. I'm enjoying Siena, though it is crazy busy. The Palio is tomorrow, and this "horse race" is the most famous of the many competitions that take place in many communities throughout Tuscany. It is impossible to describe what the Palio really means to the people of Siena since I am not one of them, but you get some feeling about it when you live in the city center for the days and weeks leading up to the actual event.
The 17 contrade, or districts that make up the city are in fierce competition for the Palio which takes place twice every year on 2 July and 16 August. Each race is similar, and I believe they both hold the same weight of importance, but some of the details of choosing which contrade race, etc. vary. They have been conducting the prove (plural for prova--to test) in the campo on the track twice a day since I arrived. These prove are followed by much rejoicing, emotional crowds, parading the horses through the streets, the men of the contrade in processions with drums and flags, the people of the contrade, all wearing the scarf of their contrada with their symbol around their necks... it is just remarkable and I feel so fortunate to be a spectator. The locals go on about these activities, stepping around tourists with cameras and video recorders as if we just aren't here--they are so immersed in their rituals.
Anyway, things are at a frenetic pace here and the city is jam packed with locals out and about, and so many tourists.

The road between the basilica & the apartment

The piazza, the basilica, and the apartment to the left

Though I don't usually suffer from jet lag, I have not slept well yet, and here's why. I am staying on the top floor of an apartment in Piazza San Francesco, directly to the left of the basilica as you look from the piazza. Between the basilica and my building is a narrow street that provides access to the city from a large parking lot below, outside the city walls. You see, Siena is restricted to most cars--although locals drive their cars and motorcycles on most of the interior streets. Most people, including locals who live outside the walls and tourists must park outside the walls and enter by foot through one of the ancient ports, or in my case, use the escalator to ascend to the street that goes by under my window. Imagine beautiful Siena, compact and kept intact within the massive wall, or "cinta muraria." Over time the city has extended out from  the walls in every direction, with a ring of houses and squat apartment buildings and a further ring of farms and churches. Then imagine the 17 contrade, or districts, and that as development extends, the people living outside are still part of each contrade. Then imagine all of them coming and going, almost 24 hours a day, and many using the road underneath my bedroom window.