Friday, March 25, 2011

Cinque Terre oggi

The Cinque Terre-- I am sure I have so many duplicate shots of this place as I have stayed here and hiked here five times now... so if anyone wants other images, let me know! It was wonderful to vistit it in late March-- too bad the trails weren't open for the most part. Took the train at 8 from Rapallo to Riomaggiore. Walked from Riomaggiore to Manarola--the strada amore, which is interesting for all the locks placed but not for hiking, and the tunnel that ends at Manarola is not so inspiring... but from there I was looking forward to the hike to Corniglia, Vernazza, and ending at Monterossa. Stopped for a cafe at a little bar overlooking il mare... beautiful. Walked a way, but unfortunately the path was securely blocked from Manarola to Corniglia, and I was sad and sorry that I hadn't checked in advance. Walked back to Manarola, stopped for a lovely farinata (chickpea and olive oil thin cake cooked over wood) and to the train. Took the train to Vernazza and although the signs said the trail was closed to Corniglia (Perocolo--Danger!!) it was open and I had a lovely hike, went almost to Corniglia then turned and walked back to Vernazza. Passsed a few people on the trail and had some nice conversations... we all wondered why the darned trails aren't open for this most beautiful time of the year... I went back to Vernazza, where I enjoyed the sun at the lovely piazza, and then tried to walk to Monterossa (Perocolo!!) but instead of danger, I saw why the helicopters I had seen earlier where dropping big white sacks on the trail... they had dropped large sacks of gravel and rocks to rebuild parts of trail. So I didn't get very far, and went back to Vernazza. More sun in the piazza, then the train to Sestri Levanti, and then to Rapallo.
All for now--enjoy some beautiful Cinque Terre fotos!
ciao tutti,
From Manarola to Corniglia, with locks on the gate...

Manarola centrale

Manarola

From Manarola to Corniglia

Vernazza

Vernazza from the trail to Corniglia








Vernazza

Vernazza

The path from Vernazza to Monterosso

The path from Vernazza to Monterosso

Bags of gravel and rocks brought in by helecopter today

Vernazza

Pranzo con cugini

Lunch with the cousins... this was my day yesterday, 24 March...


Ciao, it is really beautiful here today. I am in capris and a tshirt with the doors and windows open in my cute little apt Tre Palme. It is just about 150 steps up from la fontana, the little roundabout by the fortessa.
Cousin Rina (my mother's first cousin) picked me up at la fontana at 10 this morning, and I visited with her and Angelo for an hour or so before we ate. I kept thinking what a great use for Twitter... she is taking the marinate beef cutlets out and dredging them in flour before frying! She is patting out little "crescentini" to fry in the oil after the first is cooked! She is putting about 4 slices of salami on a crescentini and giving it to me saying mangia! I am being a little silly here, but this is exactly what it is like when I visit Rina and Angelo. We ate all the courses including home made beef ravioli that are made with local greens in the mix, and mixed with sugo--a dense, tomatoey meat sauce... yummy fried beefsteaks, artichoke fritatta,  and breada foccacia. Then dolci (almond cake and fresh strawberries and kiwi, tossed with a maricino liquer), vino, prosecco, e cafe. I am working with cousin Caroline to get the recipes for the raviolo, and got the recipe for the ripieno (this is the meat and wild greens mix that goes inside the ravioli). Then Rina offered the recipe for the sfoglia (the pasta for the ravioli), and then for the sugo (saucd) per ravioli. I also spent some time putting names to faces for the family pictures for our grandmother's (Emilia Figari) 11 brothers and sisters, born in the late 1800s to the early 1900s.
I told Rina I would like to make a plan, a piano for my time here. We got as far as Sat. i am hiking the Cinque Terre tomorrow, then tomorrow I will go with them (in Angelo's car?) to Montallegro. It was funny because they were talking about going and eating qualcosa, and she kept saying "sporco" so I was laughing and asking que cosa sporco? and they started laughing and she said she doesn't like eating in restaurants because they are sporco. Too funny. 
Rina and I walked through her garden and everything is so green, and flowers and buds, and everything covered with thick, long, green grass and weeds. She found so many greens that she told me she uses in the ravioli or other uses, and picked some lilies. She and I drove up to Foggia and to Elisa's and her father's graves and she changed the flowers for the lilies. They are both in the cemetery at the Foggia church--I hadn't been to that one. In 2003 she took us to the Montepegli church. There, we saw lots of Figaris and Aratas and Arditos (our family and Rose's) and at the Foggia cemetery today I saw lots of Costas.
Then we went to Elisa's house... I love that house and its rooms and terraces and trees and groves...  I asked Rina about the land, where it goes, what the boundaries are, etc. She picked so many herbs--almost all of them that you need for ravioli. She picked some oranges for me (I already have a huge bag of leftovers from lunch, fresh eggs from her chickens, tomatoes, a whole, small cake, artichoke frittata, carne fritta, pane, prosecco:).
There is so much to say about this land, this beautiful but old home and orchards and farm where Rina and her sister Maria grew up. Elisa and her husband Giacomo Costa, their parents and relatives before them, all created a wonderful, fruitful paese that is now sitting still, until the next generation comes to work the land.
This is the sixth time I have visited this place... 1981, 2003, 2005, 2008, 2010, and now in 2011. 
Ciao, tutti, here are some pictures from the day...
Rina and Angelo and the ravioli

On Rina and Angelos' porch

Rina and the ravioli press.... recipes on the table

Elisa's house

Elisa's house

Elisa's house looking to al mare

The herbs for ravioli

Elisa's house 
The view from Elisa's house

Elisa's house

Elisa's house

Air plants and the view from Elisa's house


Rapallo

The view from my cute little apartment in Rapallo is nice... a bit of the bay of Tigullio. I've stayed in small hotel rooms, and I am so happy to have a nice, spacious place with a view of the bay instead of an alley with lots motocicli zooming around. If you ever come to Rapallo, keep this in your planning journal--
http://www.bbtrepalme.com/


Last day in Venezia

By now you know I love this city! I went again with Antonia when she went for one class. She is so commited, but loves her studies! I spent a couple hours walking, and sitting in a nice, large piazza with families and children playing... didn't get any pics of that, but of a few other beautiful place in the city. ciao, tutti!


Me looking very small...


Beautiful light, looking from the back of a universtity building...this is the corner between Accademia and Rialto.

View from the university building looking toward Rialto bridge



Buon Compleanno, Corrado

We had a wonderful cena to celebrate Corrado's birthday at a ristorante outside of Monselice, with Carmen and Giulianno, friends and colleagues of Corrado's, whom I met last summer.
Buon compleanno Corrado, and may you continue to affect change in the world of environmental planning. And best of luck with your new book, Mobility and Environment: Humanists versus Engineers in Urban Policy and Professional Education. Tanti Aguri!

La primavera in Valle S. Giorgio

There are some really beautiful pictures of the neigborhood where I stayed with my friends Michele and Antoia. I went again to Villa Beatrice, but not all the way up into the villa. My walking buddy Josh went with me, and the last pic is of him in the front yard when we arrived home. The area is in the Colle Euganei which is both national park and homes and villages--really a wonderful mix which results in a protected area where people, plants, and animals live in wonderful harmony. Sounds good? Well, it is. ciao tutti!










The campanile in Valle S. Giorgio


Josh in the front yard